Thank you for translation.
I don't understand myself as a brand. I am a watchmaker or watch builder. Whenever I have an idea I just do it.
In my life before watchmaking and metal working I was a marketing director for many years, working for a large department store chain in Switzerland.
So, from a professional point of view of a marketing person it would be smarter just to build up a collection and maintain it. (Hoblot is an excellent case example).
However, I left marketing and retail (consumption) world because I coudn't continue to stay in this world of "more, more, more" and "cheaper, cheaper, cheaper".
I don't want to become rich, all I want is to be creative and to make things I like with my own hands - and as it seams also some clients like.
Why I don't work with other movement suppliers?
The problem with Sellita and Soprod is, they cannot fill the gap ETA has left. Delivery time also of these two supplier is extremely long but this is not the reason.
For small quantities I am producing and in consideration of the fact, almost every watch is different I don't need standardized parts or movements, respectively I think its more sutable to use also different movements.
These watch movements I am using - I have many thousand historical movements - manufactured by various ebauch companies between 1955 and 1970 have been made in the so called "golden era" of Swiss watchmaking. Allready in 1950, the perfect movement has been mass produced, mainly by Fontainemelon and A. Schild. If you look up such a movement you will realize, that due to its construction and metallurgy they will work maybe 30 years before service and this is good for the customer.
For service purpose, a movement such as the caliber FHF 96, every trained watchmaker can service. Parts are around for another 100 years, taken into consideration the millions of movements produced in the last 60 years. Fontainemelon for example has reached an annual production of 1'000'000 movement already in 1913. All the 26 ebauch companies together have produced huge quantities. And today we still find brand new movements in great quantities once a while.
However, the construction of my watches I try to keep as simple as possible.
Maybe to mention another reason I don't like new movements anymore. The annual production/sales of the Swiss industry is around 40'000'000 watches. Many of them mechanical. So it is obvious, that there are to few watchmakers around to service them. So what is the solution? Its the same as in other industries. the movements are simply replaced and not serviced anymore. Consquently the industry (ETA) is going to make movements as cheap as possible just good enough to run the 6 years to service. Maybe the reason the big brands refuse to deliver parts to independent watch repairers is to hide this. Kari told me a while ago that there are more and more ETA 2892-A or movements based on 2892-A coming in for repair with bent barrel arbors after a few years on the wrist. How comes?
Best regards,
Martin
Good evening,
Yes, Kari means Kari Voutilainen.
I don't work with suppliers and refuse to work on CNC machines.
All watch cases are made by myself on Schäublin 102 Lathe and Aciera F3 Milling machine.
I have a report on the making of a watch, that I have made for a French Forum some years ago. (for this watch the customer insisted to have a COSC ETA 2824 movement) But I am not sure how to upload pictures?
The link brings you to my website. Click on "Making Of a Watch
angularmomentum.com and then to press you will find the pdf for download
Best regards,
Martin
Traducción:
Buenas tardes,
Si, Kari se refiere a Kari Voutilanen.
Yo no trabajo con proveedores y me reuso a trabajar con maquinas CNC.
Todas las cajas de los relojes son hechas en un torno Schäublin 102 y una fresadora Aciera F3.
Tengo el reportaje de la fabricación de un reloj que hice para un foro de relojes Francés, ya hace algunos años. (para este reloj el cliente deseaba un movimiento COSC ETA 2824) No estoy seguro de como subir fotos?
El enlace lo puede llevar a mi pagina de internet. Pinche en "Making Of a Watch"
www.angularmomentum.com y luego pinche en "press", hay alli una descarga en PDF.
Mis mejores deseos,
Martin.